When winter weather warms a little and some or all of the snow disappears, many of us are susceptible to outbreaks of cabin fever. So, take care of yourself and relieve the fever by giving your garden a full winter health checkup.

“Warm days in winter are great for monitoring your garden, performing maintenance, and addressing serious problems needing immediate attention,” said Todd Jacobson, the Morton Arboretum Head of Horticulture. For anyone who’s a little lax in getting outdoor Christmas decorations down (and we know who we are), a warm February day is a great opportunity. Jacobson explained that removing holiday lights on outdoor trees is best done immediately after the holidays. Otherwise, light strands could eventually “girdle” branches, choking off water and nutrients. “The longer you wait, the greater the chance of harm,” he cautioned.

Next, do a check of shrub and perennial flower beds. Sometimes if there is a late leaf drop in the autumn, gardeners may not be able to clean out the debris before the first snow. But, fallen leaves and other garden debris can provide a great environment for disease in spring, and should be removed from beds and turf areas. Doris Taylor, Arboretum Plant Clinic manager added, “If there’s no snow cover, consider fluffing up leaves with a rake to prevent smothering plants. Then, remove excess leaves in spring.”

“Also for beds, try to keep a 3-inch-deep mulch level,” Jacobson advised. Redistribute mulch that might have shifted during winter storms. Avoid “volcano mulching,” which is building huge mulch mounds around tree trunks – an open invitation for rodents to chew on bark and damage stems.

Check if recently planted perennials suffer from winter heaving. “Heaving” occurs during freeze/thaw cycles when the crowns of perennials or small shrubs are thrust out of the ground. “The exposed root systems can dry out,” Jacobson warned. Push the plants back into the ground and cover with mulch promptly.

Perennials and grasses that might have been left up for winter interest can be cut down now if they’ve flopped over. “If the plant still has decent structure, my philosophy is to leave it up.” But sodden, sagging plants should be cleaned out.

Jacobson cautions against raking too hard in beds where there are “early risers.” “Be gentle around areas where you have planted early bloomers such as pasque flowers, hellebores and winter aconites,” he said.

This post was adapted from an article written for the Chicago Sun-Times. It was originally published in January 2008.

Ask Us
Q: The tips of my evergreens are turning brown. What can I do?
A: Winter burn often occurs on evergreens because of loss of water amid winter sun and wind. It’s best to keep your evergreens well-watered all year, right up until the ground freezes, so they have the best chance of survival in winter. Also, “three inches of mulch helps keep soil moisture even,” according to the Arboretum’s George Ware.

Q: Should I take the cones off my roses now?
A: Styrofoam cones are generally not recommended for roses because they can trap too much heat and can encourage growth too soon. Most shrub or rugosa roses don’t need extra winter protection. If you used cones this year on your teas or floribundas, check them frequently to ensure premature growth is not occurring.

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